Shakespeare and Company: The Most Iconic Bookstore in Paris
The Shakespeare and Company bookstore in Paris is nothing short of legendary. I’ve been to this bookstore countless times over the years, and it’s a must-visit place in Paris for any bibliophile.
In fact, it’s at the top of my list of things to do in Paris for book lovers.
This storied bookshop on the Left Bank of Paris is steeped in literary history, from the Lost Generation of the 1920s to the Beat Generation of the 1950s. And today, it welcomes thousands of visitors every day.
Located just across the Seine from Notre Dame, Shakespeare and Company is an English language bookstore that has been a literary haven for writers, artists, and anyone who loves books for decades.
When I used to live in Paris during college, I would pop into Shakespeare and Company all the time because it was just a short walk from my apartment. Whenever I’m back in Paris now, I still like to stop by Shakespeare and Company, although it has definitely changed over the years (more on that later!)
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting this literary landmark in Paris.
History of Shakespeare and Company
Let’s briefly talk about the history of Shakespeare and Company, shall we? Because I can honestly say that this bookstore has an amazing backstory, and you should know about it before you go.
The original Shakespeare and Company bookstore in Paris was founded in 1919 by Sylvia Beach at 12 Rue de l’Odéon. An American expat who spent most of her life living in Paris, Sylvia Beach was part of the Lost Generation group of writers and artists who called Paris home during the 1920s.
Her bookstore was a popular gathering place for members of the Lost Generation literary scene, including Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, and James Joyce. In fact, Shakespeare and Company was the only place that published James Joyce’s Ulysses in its entirety in 1922. Sadly, the bookstore was closed by the invading Germans when they occupied Paris in 1941 during World War II.
In fact, Sylvia Beach was even arrested and imprisoned by the Germans for six months for defying a Nazi officer. After the war, Sylvia Beach never reopened her store. But she bequeathed the name to young American George Whitman, whose Shakespeare and Company was a “spiritual successor” to the original.
The Current Shakespeare and Company
George Whitman was an American serviceman who loved traveling and books. After the war ended, he moved to Paris to study at the Sorbonne on the G.I. Bill. He eventually opened his Shakespeare and Company in 1951 at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, right across from Notre Dame, and where it remains today.
This bookstore became a meeting point for Paris-based writers of the 1950s, including Allen Ginsberg, Anaïs Nin, and James Baldwin. George Whitman continued to be involved with the bookstore until his death in 2011, at which point it passed on to his daughter (named Sylvia in honor of Sylvia Beach.)
Whitman said he intended Shakespeare and Company to be a “socialist utopia masquerading as a bookstore.” The idea of cultivating an open and welcoming community space was very important to him.
Visiting Shakespeare and Company: My Top Tips to Know Before You Go
Shakespeare and Company is located just across from Notre Dame on the Left Bank of the Seine. The address is 37 rue de la Bûcherie, and the nearest Metro station is Saint-Michel Notre-Dame.
The bookstore is open every day of the week, from 10 AM to 8 PM Monday through Wednesday, 10 AM to 9 PM Thursday through Saturday, and 12 PM to 7 PM Sunday. The cafe is open every day from 9:30 AM to 7 PM.
You can easily spend a lot of time here, because the bookstore is quite large and made up of many interconnected rooms. There are also plenty of cozy spots where you can sit and page through a book.
However, I have to say that I’ve noticed a huge change in the crowd levels at Shakespeare and Company. Back when I was in college, I could pop into the bookstore on a random weekday afternoon, and there wouldn’t be too many people there. But in recent years, it’s grown in popularity, and it’s always crowded.
In fact, it’s likely that you’ll have to wait in line to enter the bookstore at pretty much any time of the day. I still think it’s worth visiting, but keep this in mind and be prepared to wait a little bit.
I don’t want you to arrive thinking you’ll have the whole bookstore to yourself, and end up disappointed. Yes, Shakespeare and Company is pretty touristy now, but you should still go.
Fun Facts About Shakespeare and Company
Here are a few more fun facts about Shakespeare and Company that you might find interesting:
You can spend the night there. Since it opened under George Whitman, Shakespeare and Company has welcomed more than 30,000 “tumbleweeds” who were given a place to sleep inside the store in exchange for helping out for a couple of hours a day, reading a book a day, and contributing a short one-page autobiography to the store’s collection. Cool, right? The program has evolved over the years to be more of a writer’s residency, offering stays of up to one month, and you can find details about applying here.
It was founded by an adventurous spirit. George Whitman was an American serviceman who moved to Paris after World War II to study at the Sorbonne. As a child, he lived in China with his family after his father accepted a teaching position there. Later, when he was in his early twenties, George Whitman embarked on a “hobo adventure” walking around the United States, Mexico, and Central America. He gave Shakespeare and Company its motto: “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be angels in disguise.”
Many other bookstores share the name. While the Shakespeare and Company in Paris is the original, many other bookstores around the world use the same name. One of my favorite bookstores in New York is called Shakespeare and Company. I also stumbled upon a Shakespeare and Company in Vienna, Austria! There are plenty more bookstores around the globe with the name Shakespeare and Company too. However, none of them are affiliated with the original Shakespeare and Company bookstore in Paris.
Shakespeare and Company in Paris
Hopefully this guide has told you everything you need to know about Shakespeare and Company.
This historic bookstore is a literary landmark that should not be missed while you are in Paris. You can easily pass an hour browsing the many rooms full of books or sitting down at the cafe to read.
Although it’s no longer possible to be a “tumbleweed” and spend a few nights inside Shakespeare and Company in exchange for helping out around the store, it’s still worth a visit to this iconic place.
Enjoy your visit to Shakespeare and Company!
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